Introduction and History

The departement of Tarn, in south west France, was created in 1790 around the three dioceses of Albi, Castres and Lavaur which had previously been part of Languedoc. It is surrounded by Aveyron in the north and east, Herault in the south east, Aude in the south, Haute-Garonne in the south west and west and by Tarn-et-Garonne in the north west. The slope of the departement is from east to west and its general character is either mountainous or hilly.

The river Tarn, which gives the departement its name is a tributary of the Garonne. It is 234 metres long and flows through four other departements; Lozere, Aveyron, Haute Garonne and Tarn and Garonne.

It rises on the southern slope of Mount Lozere at a height of 5249 feet, it flows westward and just after the confluence with the river Tarn on it enters the gorge that is noted for its spectacular beauty and separates the Causse de Sauveterre from Causse Mejan.

The Tarn flows through a dramatic route of deep forested hills and sometimes bizarre, grotesque, primeval rocks, gathering momentum as it is joined by the Dourdou de Vabre and the Dourbie.

As it flows south towards Castres and Montagne Noir the landscape becomes gentler with woods and pasturelands, small lakes and rivers. It is a departement full of contrasts; mountains, endless oak forests, lush river valleys, twisted gorges, gentle fields of sunflowers and acres of prolific vineyards producing luxuriant clusters of grapes.

The Tarn is unique in that it has a foot in the heat and tranquillity of the Midi and another in the cooler and more dramatic north. Its majestic forests, romantic valleys, dramatic rock formations in the "Sidobre", its friendly wines from the vines around Gaillac, its medieval villages, the "pink" city of Albi dominated by the most extraordinary cathedral in France.

Gaillac's wines, farm produce - most famously 'fois gras' - and tourism are still the Tarn's primary sources of income and yet much of the department is within easy access of Toulouse, one of France's fastest growing cities.

There are several distinctly different parts of the Tarn, influenced by small climactic changes, that have influenced the lay of the land and the type of property man has built there.

North of the Toulouse/Albi axis – typified by the ‘Triangle d’Or’, or that area in between Gaillac, Cordes-sur-Ciel and Albi, is an area known as the Cordais Plateau, after the 12th century bastide, or fortified town, of Cordes; this area is typified by hillsides of vines, ancient and other dramatic bastide towns built from the solid rock on which they sit.

To the east of the great cathedral city of Albi, the Tarn river makes its descent from the Grandes Causses, following a dramatic route through forested hills and rock formations; this area is typified by the beautiful, but austere monastery of Ambialet, dating from the 10th century.

To the south of Albi, we enter what is still deemed to be part of the Haut Languedoc and on towards Castres and the Montagne Noir. Much of this area has been incorporated into the Parc Naturel de Regional de Haut Languedoc and is typified by woods and pasture land and small, sleepy villages. The Montagne Noir is an area of steep, densely forested paths and small lakes and rivers; they are ideal for the mountain biker or rambler and offer an opportunity for isolated calm and contemplation.

Generally, (the Tarn is affected by several micro-climates in particular locations), it has over 2000 hours of sunshine a year and the average daily temperature ranges from 16 degrees in spring to 26-28 degrees in high summer. It enjoys long, hot and dry summers, warm and sunny Autumns and short winters, which can occasionally be sharp; Spring is a time for the rain that keeps the Tarn green throughout the year. At any time of year, the Tarn river valley can be cloaked in a mist which normally burns off by lunchtime

History

In Tarn you find pre-historic dolmens, Roman oppidums, fortified 11th century castles and the bastide towns of the 13th century which featured in the Albigensian wars against the Cathars.

First settled in prehistoric times, it was the Romans in about 100BC who planted the seeds of civilisation in the area. As was most of the Midi Pyrenees the Tarn was one of the ancient territories of the province of the Languedoc. Built on trading, with the River Tarn playing an important role, real wealth was begun to be enjoyed by the area's inhabitants as a result of the cultivation of 'woad', producing the famous blue coloured dye. The merchants made rich by these products built the great city of Albi, with its impressive renaissance architecture. It is the Tarn's religious heritage though that really leaves its mark, with the department made up of the three distinctive dioceses of Albi, Castres and Lavaur. This was the country of the Cathars, a dark period of history, with little to remind us now except the hugely powerful basilica built to erase their memory.

The golden age of the county of Toulouse ended with the Albigensian Crusade.

The main cause of the Albigensian Crusade was the introduction of the Cathar religion in Western Europe in the XIIth century. Catharism came from Bulgaria and was particularly well considered by the nobles in the county of Toulouse.
Catharism was a religion that believed into two equal principles, Good and Evil. The Cathars condemned the matter and the flesh as the domain of Evil, and therefore rejected the Christian resurrection. Moreover, the Cathars denounced the wealth and the corruption of the Roman Catholic Church (in Ancient Greek, catharos means pure). They recognized only one sacrament, the consolamentum, received by the Perfects or Parfaits. The parfaits had a very ascetic life, whereas the normal believers received the consolamentum only when they were about to die. The Cathars rejected baptism, marriage and the eucharist. The Cathars had four bishops in Albi (therefore the name of the Crusade), Carcassonne, Toulouse and Agen.

The popularity of the Cathars scared Pope Innocent III (1198-1216), who called for a Crusade in January 1208.

The treaty of Paris created the University of Toulouse in order to re-establish the Christian religion in Languedoc and to help the Inquisition, in the hands of the Dominicans. However, there was a last burst of Catharism between 1230 and 1240. In 1242, a group of Inquisitors were murdered in Avignonet by Cathars from the castle of Montségur. In spring 1243, Montségur was besieged and the siege ended on 16 March 1244, when 215 Cathars prefered to be burned at the stake than recant. Quéribus, the last Cathar castle, was seized in 1255, which ended the Crusade.

http://www.askwhy.co.uk/christianity/0811Inquisition.html

New towns, many of which were developments of older towns already there, came into being after 1271 when the French monarchy inherited the possessions of the counts of Toulouse.

More than 300 ‘bastide towns’ were founded as the inhabitants looked forward to an era of new prosperity and growth. In the earlier bastides Cathars hoped to live unmolested by the orthodox church but as a result of the troubled times of the Albigensian crusade and English raids during the Hundred Years War, the inhabitants usually decided that no bastide was complete without powerful and sometimes highly ingenious fortifications.

The bastides helped to bring stability and peace to the region. Linen and hemp were grown in the surrounding countryside and merchants, leather workers, dyers and weavers continued to prosper here, building a quite exceptional collection of rich gothic houses. http://bastidess.free.fr/

Map of Tarn

Getting there

The nearest and largest airport is Toulouse Blagnac which has regular flights to and from the UK. Tel: 33   5 61424400 www.toulouse.aeroport.fr

The airport shuttle bus leaves from Toulouse Blagnac airport every 20 mins to the centre of Toulouse right by the train station where there are good connections to Albi. There is also a shuttle bus between Toulouse airport and Albi, Carmaux, Mazamet – Castres operated by Interlignes Company who have a desk based in Toulouse airport in Hall 2, Level Arrivals. Tel: 33 5 63497949

www.sncf.fr
www.tgv.com
http://www.navettevia-toulouse.com/english/index.html

It takes approximately 50 minutes to drive from Toulouse airport to Albi along the RN88.

Castres-Mazamet is the secondary regional airport in the Tarn with 41 daily flights to and from either Paris or Lyons. Tel: 33 5 63703477
www.castres-mazamet.cci.fr/aeroport.php

Where to go/What to see

Albi: Is a small industrial town and the capital of the region and it houses two unique architectural gems.

The first is the Cathedral of Saint Cecile and is the most remarkable Gothic cathedral ever built. It was begun in 1280 as a manifestation of the triumph over Catharsism for it was the city of Albi that gave its name to both the heresy and the crusade-Albigensian. The cathedral itself dominates the landscape and is awe-inspiring, not for the beauty of its architecture but for its sheer size and superstructure.

Next to the cathedral is a thirteenth century red brick castle, Palais de la Berbie which houses the Musee Toulouse-Lautrec who was born in Albi. There is a most comprehensive collection of his works and the building itelf and particularly the gardens and the view over the river Tarn is worth a visit.

http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/toulouse-lautrec/

The rest of the city houses a quaint, restored medieval quarter with all the usual shops.

There are also three festivals during the year. Jazz in May, Theatre in June/July and classical music July/August and free organ recitals in the cathedral during July and August.

http://www.mairie-albi.fr/eng/index.html

Lisle sur Tarn: Is a small eleventh century bastide town with its shops and cafes recessed under colonnades and it it is the oldest colonnaded town in south west France and it is certainly the only one to have a port for the in the thirteenth century the River Tarn had a flourishingrade in woad production. The sense of the medieval is echoed in the half timbered houses and its four fortified doorways to the town.

It also possesses the largest square surrounded by couverts (covered arcades) in the South-West. Half-timbered houses with passages passing below their upper storeys lead down to the water. Like all these villages linked to the Tarn, Lisle sur Tarn is best seen from the opposite bank ; its terraces and ramps cascading down to the former port and is lined with beautiful mansions and ornamental terraced gardens.

The town church, Notre Dame de la Jonquiere has an octagonal bell tower and its museum houses a collection of nineteenth and twentieth century artists including Raymond Lafage. http://www.ville-lisle-sur-tarn.fr/_GB/Fst_030.html

Gaillac: Situated in the middle of the Tarn plain, Gaillac creates a major road interchange between Toulouse and Albi along the A68. It survived the assaults of the Albigensian Crusade and the Hundred Years War to become an important trade centre owing its prosperity to the grape and surviving on of the most ancient vineyards in France.

The town is built from old bricks and reflects thousands of colours in the sunshine. The Benedictine Abbey of St. Michel overlooks the river and has an excellent Museum of the Wine Trade plus an excellent and reasonable Cave. There are also two excellent  museums.

Archaeological digs in Montans, just outside Gaillac, have uncovered Greek coins from Marseilles confirming trading links between Tarn and the Eastern Mediterranean.

http://www.cave-de-tecou.fr/histoireuk.html

Foucaud Castle houses the Fine Arts Museum, surrounded by vast French-style lawns and terraced gardens embellished with pools and fountains.

http://www.ville-gaillac.fr/index.asp

Ambialet: The Tarn makes a 3km long loop around a rocky knoll, returning on itself to leave the Ambialet peninsular only 30 metres wide at its narrowest. This unique site, which for two centuries was the most important stronghold of the Albigeois, still bears the signs of its important past.

The isthmus is attached to the bank by a narrow hill crest against which nestle the houses, and on which stand the ruins of the castle, the Romanesque church perched on a rock and the old priory.

The village and the aptly-named Pressqu’ile d’Ambialet are a scenic ’tour de force’ river sculpture. As you approach Ambialet you plunge into a short 20 metre-long tunnel but from the viewpoint an unusual meander lies both behind and below you. The two curves in the river to the south almost touch. At the narrowest point there’s a small ornate château-style building which is an electricity generating station; water is allowed to flow through an underground channel which bridges the 15 metre-wide gap and this is the reason why the loop to the north has such a dried-up look

There’s also a sort of Arbutus tree or Aladem tree that legend says was brought back from the Holy Land by a crusader. One of the many signposted walks around the village leads to cave Oubieges, a medieval cave that was  discovered in 1959.

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/ambialet/index_uk.htm

Cordes sur Ciel: Is remarkable -- it's like an eagle's nest on a hilltop, above the Cérou valley.

The city was surrounded of two lines of ramparts closed by powerful strengthened gates and was a stronghold of the Albigensians. The city was founded in 1222 by count of Toulouse, during the time of reconquest after the crusade against the Cathars. It became an important new city to house the people who had lost land and homes during the war.

http://www.cordes-sur-ciel.org/Frame_an.htm

The name Cordes is derived from the textile and leather industries that thrived here during the 13th and 14th centuries. Artisans working with linen and leather prospered, and the town also became known throughout France for its brilliantly coloured silks. In the 16th century, however, plagues and religious wars reduced the city to a minor role. A brief renaissance occurred in the 19th century, when automatic weaving machines were introduced.

In days gone by, many celebrities, such as Jean-Paul Sartre and Albert Camus, considered this town a favorite hideaway. Today Cordes is an arts-and-crafts city, and many of the ancient houses on the narrow streets contain artisans plying their skills -- blacksmiths, enamelers, graphic artists, weavers, engravers, sculptors, and painters. http://www.cordes-sur-ciel.org/ArtistesArtisans/Frame_an.htm

You must park outside the city and then walk through an arch leading to the old town; a beautiful bastide with medieval buildings many of which are now shops and restaurants.

The beautiful House of the Falconers is a museum to Yves Brayer and house the donation made by the painter to the council in 1960. http://www.yvesbrayer.com/pages/gb/cordes/cordes.htm

There are many beautiful bastide towns like Salvagnac and Puycelci that are well worth a visit. http://www.vacances-tarn-campagne.com/bastides.html suggests a well defined circuit of the bastides in the Tarn.

Lavaur: Located at the heart of a historical frontier zone between Albigensian and Lauragais, Lavaur is one of the oldest cities of the Tarn mentioned in 1035 and the church of Saint Alain begun in 1098 to dominate the Agout river. As with most towns in the area it was a centre of Cathar heresy but after the Lord of Lavaur was drowned in a well and 400 inhabitants were burned in the crusade the city surrendered to the king and became a site of royal administration.

Lavaur from the fourteenth century became a trade centre holding important fairs and markets and now is the metropolis for western Tarn.

Lavaur history is present at every street corner and of note are the 18^th century hospital, a splendid stone bridge on Agoût, many half timbered houses, the cathedral St-Alain, the gardens of évêch, old houses on the street Father Hake and Main street, the Saint-François church, his Gothic decoration and the Puget organ, and the Tower of the Rounds and alleys of plane trees, where the Saturday market is held.

 Since 1996, a twinning was created between Lavaur and the Catalan city of El Vendrell, seaside resort located on the Mediterranean at 30 km at the north of Tarragone, and birthplace of the famous type-setter and violoncellist Pablo Casals. Each year, of the cultural exchanges (concerts, exposures, visits...) and sporting events take place between the two cities, on both sides of the Pyrenees. http://www.ville-lavaur.fr/html/fr/tou_bienvenue.htm 

Millau: Technically speaking Millau is in Aveyron. It is at the start of the Tarn gorges, at the confluence of the Tarn and Dourbie rivers. It is the French capital of leather; the industry of which began in the middle ages and flourished with the onset of industrialisation in the nineteenth century.http://www.millau.fr/WW70AWP/WW70AWP.EXE/CONNECT/MAIRIE7

An economic and tourism turning point for Millau was the opening of the viaduct; a unique piece of engineering which reaches its peak at 343 metres high and a length of 2.5 metres spanning the Tarn river. The bridge was designed by Sogelerg-Foster and financed and built by Eiffage and has made Millau a crossroad between Northern Europe, Spain and the Euro Mediterranean countries.

http://inconsistency.blogspot.com/2004/12/flying-across-millau.html

http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/Millau_Viaduct.html

http://www.cgarchitect.com/news/newsfeed.asp?nid=2444

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0%2C%2C3-1403485%2C00.html

Market Days

For a list of the three dozen or so markets in the Tarn and the days and times of opening, see http://www.francemag.com/frmag/content/filoFrance/?id=73

What to Do

Museums

Albi: The Toulouse-Lautrec Museum the Lapérouse Museum and the Viel Albi Wax Museum

Andillac: the Guérin Museum at the Château de Cayla,

Cagnac: The Mine Museum,

Castres: The Jean-Jaurès National Centre and the Goya Museum

Corde sur Ciel: the Charles Portal Art and History Museum

Gaillac: The Saint-Michel Abbey Museum, the Fine Arts museum at the Château de Foucaud and the Philadelphe Thomas Natural History Museum,

Labastide Rouairoux: The Black Mountain Ecomuseum

Lisle sur Tarn: The Raymond Lafage Muesum,

Monuments:

Albi: The Saint-Cécile cathedral and the Saint-Salvy church,

Burlat: the Adélaïde Pavillion,

Lautrec: the Old Benedictine Convent, the Château de Malvignol and the Windmill,

Monesties: the Entombment - Bajen-Vega Museum,

Roquevidal: the Château de Roquevidal,

Saix: the Château de Sendrone,

St Paul Cap de Joux: the St. Cécile de Plane Sylve chapel,

Senouillac: the Château de Mauriac,

Sorèze: The Abbey school.  

Craftsmen

Albi: the Glassmaker (V.O.A),

Cordes sur Ciel: Instrument Making, the Brayer Cordaise Embroidery museum and the Sugar Arts museum

Durfort: the Copper Museum,

Graulhet: the Leatherworkers' House,

Lacaune: the Ramond Mill and Slateworks,

Mazamet: the Wood and Toy house.

Other Places of Interest

Saint Juéry: Musée du Saut du Tarn.. Tel. : 05 63 45 97 07

Ambialet: Meandre of the Tarn ; the priory. Tel. : 05 63 55 39 14

Coupiac: Visit the fortress. Tel. : 05 65 99 79 45

Le Truel: Visit the EDF dam on the Tarn. Tel. : 05 65 62 58 21

Montpellier Le Vieux: Round walk or tour by little road train to see the natural rock formations overlooking the gorges and the Grands Causses. Tel. : 05 65 60 66 30

Millau: Visit the Beffroi (Belfry). Musée de la peau et du gant (glove museum). Archaeological site of la Graufesenque. Tel. : 05 65 60 02 42

Compeyre: Maison de la Vigne and the underground cellars. Tel. : 05 65 59 03 06

Rivière sur Tarn: Visit Peyrelade castle, remains of a mediaeval fortress. Tel. : 05 65 59 74 28 or 05 65 59 81 37

Le Viala du Tarn: Boat trip to see the « Raspes du Tarn ». Tel. : 05 65 62 59 12

Saint-Sulpice la Pointe: 15th century church with 3 towers ; ruins of Castela castle and underground passages. Market Wednesday morning.

Giroussens: Maison de la Céramique Contemporaine.

Rabastens: Church of Notre Dame du Bourg ; Musée du pays Rabastinois . Market Tuesday and Saturday mornings.
Tel. : 05 63 33 56 90Tel. : 05 63 41 68 22Tel. : 05 63 41 89 50

Lisle sur Tarn: The bastide ; Musée Raymond Lafage. Market Sunday mornings. Tel. : 05 63 40 31 85

Gaillac: Maison de la Vigne et du Vin et son Musée ; Musée des Beaux Arts. Market Tuesday, Friday and Sunday mornings.
Tel. : 05 63 57 14 65. Abbaye Saint Michel Tel. : 05 63 57 14 65

Albi: Cathedral Sainte-Cécile ; Musée Toulouse-Lautrec ; Jardin de la Berbie ; Musée Lapérouse. Market every day except Monday.
Tel. : 05 63 49 48 80

Chemin de Fer Touristique: A 30 minute train trip  on an authentic steam train from Toulouse, Albi or Castres. http://www.cftt.org/

Sport

Lakes: There are several lakes nearby where you can swim, pedalo or walk.

Cycling: With many country lanes around, cycling is very popular, Bike hire is possible.

Walking: well-marked and maintained GR paths, signposted with red/yellow marks span the region with stunning scenery to walk through.

Parc Naturel Regional du Haut Languedoc is perfect for those who want to trek higher, experience forests, woods and a lot of the natural wildlife of mouflon sheep, boar and deer.

Part of the Pilgrim’s Path is found in this area – the famous Simon du Montfort crusade against the Cathars.

Canoeing: can be done on the Tarn at the nearby beautiful village of Ambialet. Canoeing enthusiasts are well catered for in this department, as there are several rivers suitable for the sport : the Tarn, the Viaur, the Cérou and the Agoût. Information is avalaible from the Comité Départemental de Canoë-kayak.
Tel. : 00 33 5 63 45 90 49. 

Rafting: In Lisle-Sur-Tarn

Fishing: A large lake nearby allows free fishing

Golf: There is a golf course in Albi. Golf de Florentin-Gaillac: Between the vineyard, this golf course is not too taxing. However, some strokes require good concentration prior to being played. A view of Albi from hole # 10 is quite superb.

Other 18 hole courses in the region.

Golf d'Albi-Lasbordes: A splendid championship golf course where the Tarn river runs alongside some of the fairways. On several holes, especially #15, you can be distracted by the beauty of the Cathedral Sainte-Cecile towering in the background.

Mazamet is home to one of the oldest golf courses in the South of France. It is a challenging course situated in the valley near Pont du l'Arn. The spectacular backdrop of the Montagne Noire offers lovely views as you play your way towards the 18th hole. The club house is home to a great restaurant where the Patron speaks passable English.

Mazamet-La Barouge Golf Club 81660 Pont de l'Arn Tel : 63 61 08 00 / 63 67 06 72  Fax : 63 61 13 03 

Golf du grand Rodez: Dominating Rodez on an undulating plateau this golf course can be pleasant for every golfer. There is also a friendly Club house with a good ambience.

Golf des etangs de Fiac: Very nice to play here, think about the water hazards and the best place to land the ball on several holes and you will not be too taxed. Good facilities including swimming pool an excellent restaurant.

Adventure Parks

Cap'Découverte: The only site of its kind in Europe, is located in a disused open-pit coalmine that's been reconverted into a gigantic leisure centre featuring a spectacular amphitheatre 1,300 meters in diameter and 230 meters deep, entirely dedicated to fun !

At Cap'Découverte, skiing, zip-lining and tobogganing go on all summer long. As well as cycling, rollerblading, skating, skiing or snowboarding down a synthetic slope, Giant Zip-line, mountain bikes, Skate park, Devalkarts, Mini kart, or swimming pool, Mining Museum or the Titan Park.

Entrance is free of charge, and there are free activities and others for an admittance fee.
http://www.capdecouverte.com/capdecouverte.php4?lang=EN

St Pierre de Trivisy: Set in 4 hectares of woodland. Over 70 games in the trees, intended to push back your horizons. Tel : 00 33 5 63 73 09 03

Wild Life

The Tarn is rich in birds, butterflies and flora, probably due to most of the population and any industry being concentrated in Albi and Castres and to the absence of large-scale agriculture.

Birdwatchers are likely to see birds of prey including hen-harriers, buzzards,red kites, kestrels and sparrowhawks. Barn, tawny, little owls and even night-jars, can be spotted by insomniac twitchers and during the day, kingfishers, long tailed tits, flycatchers, treecreepers, blackcaps, redstarts, wagtails and the golden oriole as well as many many song-birds can be seen. A big favourite is the Hoopoe which has a rapid far carrying clipped “hoo hoo” which is less musical than the cuckoo and not as drawn out as the owl.

Visually it is quite unmistakeable with its curved dark bill and black tipped crest. With its pinkish cinnamon plumage and strongly barred black and white wings it resembles a huge moth in flight.

There are over 40 species of butterflies to be found and some can be seen in Butterfly Valley, Puycalvel near Lautrec.

Wild Orchids are prolific on the maquis and hill-tops as are saxifrage, euphorbias, erinus alpinus, sedum, primulas valerianas and potentillas.

The Jardins des Martels "à l'anglaise" at Giroussens are most impressive, especially the water-gardens. (Non-horticulturists can escape on a small steam railway to Satin-Lieux.) The gardens beside the cathedral in Lavaur are a gem of French municipal horticulture. There is also a plethora of mushrooms and colourful toadstools to be found.

The occasional wolf is still around as well as the boar, deer, wild cattle and foxes. A veritable feast for the local huntsmen. Very prolific is the humble hedgehog which quietly lumbers on his way engorged by the prolific amount of insects to be found.

Further Tourist Information

Tourist offices:

Weather in Tarn